Pennsylvania to North Carolina, via Kentucky

Last post we were in Southwestern PA... we had a big driving day (for us anyway) and ended up travelling through West Virginia to Lexington Kentucky.  We took secondary roads because we tend to see more that way - but it took a lot more time since we were driving through the mountains, and there was a lot of storm damage.  The roads were clear but there were trees down every 10-20 feet, many hanging on power lines that looked like they'd snap at any moment.

Once we got into the mountains of West Virginia, I was shocked at how impoverished it seemed.  People were living in shacks, and by shacks I mean something most folks wouldn't store a lawnmower in.  But I was impressed at how resilient these people must be.  Anna used the word "scrappy".  They were living out in the middle of nowhere, in the cold, seemingly dirt poor, but they still managed to get along.

Once we got to Kentucky we hit a Wal-Mart to get some needed supplies.  I joked on Facebook that I was going to a Kentucky Wal-Mart - playing on a little back-woods stereotype I guess.  For reasons I won't bore you with I don't like to shop at Walmart stores, but you know what?  This was by far THE nicest Walmart I've ever been too.  I felt kindof bad making a joke about it.

Anna grew up with horses so we took a drive up to the 1200 acre Kentucky Horse Park and saw champion horses from many of the famous races.  Many of the horses were 20+ years old but they looked young and spry.  Some were friendly, and others - like the one below - not so much.  I don't know much about horses, but "ears back" isn't good right?

Oh I see, he just wanted some hay...  Anna was braver than me.  Those guys have big teeth.

Once we got sick of all the horses we headed off to visit the Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill.  The Shakers had a pretty good thing going, except for the whole seperation of males and females thing.  But imagine your options back in the 1800's if you didn't have any kind of wealth... you could work yourself to the bone and not get very far, or you could go live at one of these beautiful Shaker villages and have a reasonably nice life.  And the site was gorgeous - looked like a rich Massachusetts town.

They had dorms, like the one behind me, where the men lived on one side and the women on the other.  Separate entry doors, staircases, and hallways for each sex so as to limit possibility of "temptation".  Everybody shared in the labor, so nobody got stuck doing everything.

We decided to spend the night in Bardstown, a quaint little village that also happens to be a hot spot for Kentucky bourbon - so we were sure to sample the local offerings.  Everybody we spoke to was warm and friendly and Kentucky turned out to be a pretty great place.

(Anna taking over here) The next morning we headed off to Mammoth Caves National Park. It is famous for its sheer size mostly: the largest tunnels were like subway tunnels, but 10 times as large, that went for miles. Underneath this layer are 4 other layers of caves, each getting smaller and narrower. The entire system is about 400 miles, but they are still exploring and are about to announce that they are up to 500 miles. It has a pretty haunting beauty. No fancy stalagtite displays in much of it, just the raw feeling of entering deep into the earth.

I stole a picture off the internet, because our pictures showed darkness and dust.

After the caves and a quick drive down the interstate, we checked into a dumpy hotel in Nashville, TN! First order of business: find BBQ. We located a place called Jack's across the street that was a no frills kind of place, that served large meat-dominated dinners for about $12. Absolutely amazing... lord the food is good down here! Please note that the meal below was NOT devoured in one sitting... it served as a substantial lunch the following day as well. I did drink all that sweet tea though. It was delicious!

BBQ was followed by (a nap, then) a grand time in Nashville! I had heard that it had a huge music scene, but I was unprepared. Choice of maybe 30-40 bars, each with live music and no cover charges? SO much fun! 

Finally yesterday we drove from Nashville to Ashville (North Carolina). Happily, a friend from Massachusetts, Leigh, was visiting her folks just a short way from our route. We had a very delightful visit, made even extra special as Mrs. Maroney had just made a pumpkin pie.  From scratch.  As in she started out with an actual gourd. It was amazing. But food aside (I am easily distracted) we were very happy to stop and see some friendly faces.